www.mushroomvideos.com Part 2 of the BRF Tek section of Let’s Grow Mushrooms 2 DVD set
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Anyone who has a snug, warm shed, may have a good mushroom house, but it is imperative that the floor should be dry, and the roof water-tight. Of course a close shed, as a tool-house or a carriage-house, is better than an open shed, but even a shed that is open on the south side, if closely walled on the other sides, can also be made of good use for mushroom beds. While open sheds are good enough for beds that yield their crop before Christmas, they are ill-adapted for midwinter beds. The temperature of the interior of a mushroom bed should be about 60° during the bearing period, and the temperature of the surface of the bed 45° to 50° at least; if lower than that the mycelium has a tendency to rest, and the crop stagnates. Now this temperature cannot be maintained in an open shed, in hard frosty weather, without more trouble than the crop is worth. The beds would have to be boxed up and mulched very heavily. And even in a close, warm shed, protection in this way would have to be given, but the bed should not be under the penetrating influence of piercing winds and draughts. The mushroom beds should therefore be made in the warmest parts of the warmest sheds.

The beds should be made upon the floor and as much to one side as possible, so as to be out of the way, and in form flat on the ground, or rounded up against the sides of the shed; in the latter case the house should be well banked around on the outside with litter or tree leaves or earth, so as to exclude frost from the lower part of the walls, and thereby prevent the manure in the beds from getting badly chilled. The beds should be made deeper in a cool shed than in a cellar or warm mushroom house, so that they may retain their heat for a long time.

Shelf beds should not be used in unheated sheds, because of the difficulty in keeping them warm in winter. As a rule, shelf beds are not made as deep as are those upon the floor; hence they do not hold their heat so long. When cold weather sets in it is easy to box up and cover over the lower beds to keep them warm, but in the case of shelf beds, that are exposed above and below, it is more trouble to protect them sufficiently against cold than they are worth.

Generally speaking, the term shed is applied to unheated, simple wooden structures; for instance, the wood-shed, the tool-shed, a carriage-house, or a hay-barn. But we often use the name shed to designate heated buildings as the potting and packing sheds of florists. Were it not that these heated sheds are simply workrooms, and where there is a great deal of going out and in, and, consequently, draughts and sudden and frequent fluctuations of temperature, the treatment of mushroom beds made in them would be the same as that advised for regular mushroom houses; but as the circumstances are somewhat different the treatment, too, should not be the same. A warm potting shed is an excellent place for mushroom beds. Here they should be made under the benches and covered up in front with thick calico, plant-protecting cloth, or light wooden shutters, to exclude cold currents and sudden atmospheric changes, and guard against the beds drying too quickly.

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Kenny Point demonstrates how to grow your own crop of gourmet mushrooms through hardwood inoculation. View Kenny’s Blog: www.veggiegardeningtips.com Follow Kenny on Twitter twitter.com
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www.mushroomvideos.com Part 1 of the BRF Tek section of Let’s Grow Mushrooms 2 DVD set
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Mushrooms require a uniform moderately low temperature and moist atmosphere, and will not thrive where draughts, sudden fluctuations of temperature, or moisture prevail. Therefore, an underground cellar is the best of all structures in which to grow mushrooms. The cellar is everybody’s mushroom house. Cellars are under dwellings, barns, and other out-buildings. Cellars are imperative for domestic purposes such as storage, and for these reasons they are made frost proof and dry. Cellars are ideal mushroom houses, and anyone who has a good cellar can grow mushrooms.

If a cellar is to be wholly devoted to mushroom-growing, it should be made as warm as possible with double windows, and double doors (if the entrance is from another building, a single door will suffice). A chimney-like shaft or shafts rising from the ceiling should be used as ventilators in winter, when we cannot ventilate from doors or windows; side ventilation at any time when the beds are in bearing condition is rather precarious. There should be some indoor way of getting into the cellar, as by a stairway from the building above it. You, also need an easy way of getting in fresh materials for the beds, and removing the exhausted material. This is, perhaps, best obtained by having a door that opens to the outside, or a moderately large one from the building above.

The interior arrangement of the cellar is a matter of choice with the grower, but the simplest way is to have beds three or four feet wide around the inside of the walls, and beds six feet wide, with pathways two, or two and one-half feet wide between them running parallel along the middle of the cellar. Above these floor-beds, shelf-beds according to the height of the cellar, may be formed, always leaving a space of two and one-half or three feet between the bottom of one bed and the bottom of the next. This is necessary to make and tending the beds, gather the crop, and empty the beds when they are exhausted.

Instead of using box beds, some growers spread the bed all over the floor of the cellar, and leave no pathway. (Stepping-boards or raised pathways are used instead) Others make ridge beds all over the cellar floor. The ridges are two feet wide at bottom, two feet high, and six or eight inches wide at top, and there is a foot alley between them.

In any other outhouse cellars, as well as in one completely given over to this use, we can make up beds and grow good mushrooms. Mr. James Vick told me that at his seed farm near Rochester, he raises many mushrooms in winter in his potato cellars; and so can anyone in similar places. Mr. John Cullen, of South Bethlehem, Pa., a very successful cultivator, tells me that his present mushroom cellar used to be a large underground cistern, but with a little fixing, and opening a passage-way to it from a neighboring cellar, he has converted it into an excellent cellar for mushrooms, and surely the immense crops that I have seen in that cave of total darkness justify his opinion of it.

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Under suitable conditions we can grow mushrooms easily in open fields. The planting of the spawn is all the trouble they cause. During the late summer and fall months mushrooms often appear spontaneously and in great quantity in our pastures. In their natural condition, they are an uncertain crop. One year they may occur in the greatest abundance, and in the next none can be found. Why this is so is not clear. The popular opinion is that after a dry summer mushrooms abound in the fields, but after a wet summer they are a very scarce crop; and the inference is that the moisture has killed the spawn in the ground. This may be true, but how does it happen that good spawn planted by hand in the fields in early summer will produce mushrooms toward fall whether the summer has been wet or dry?

As a rule, wild mushrooms abound most in rich, old, well-drained, rolling pasture lands, and avoid dry, sandy, or wet places, or the neighborhood of trees and bushes. In attempting to cultivate them in open fields we should provide similar conditions. Then the chief requisite is good spawn, for without this we cannot raise mushrooms.

Mr. Henshaw, of Staten Island, who has been very successful in growing mushrooms in the fields as well as indoors, writes to me as follows: “You ask me to give you my plan of growing mushrooms in the fields during the summer. It is very simple. About the end of June, or as soon as dry weather sets in, we remove the old beds from our mushroom house, and if there should be any live spawn in the bottom of our beds we put it in a wheelbarrow and take it to the field, where we plant it in the open places, but never under trees. In planting, we lift a sod and put a shovelful of the manure containing the spawn in the hole, then replace the sod and beat it down firm; this we do at distances of twelve feet apart. If we have no live spawn from our indoor beds we take the common brick spawn, and put about a quarter of a brick into each hole, returning and beating down the sod as already stated.
This is all that is done. If there comes a dry time after the spawn is put in the pasture we are sure to have a good supply of mushrooms in the fall.”

A few years ago Carter & Co., seedsmen, London, sent this to one of the gardening periodicals: “The following mode of growing mushrooms in meadows by one of our customers may be interesting to your readers: In March (May would be soon enough here) he begins to collect droppings from the stables.

These, when enough have been gathered together, are taken into the meadow, where holes dug here and there about one foot” or eighteen inches square are filled with them, the soil removed being scattered over the surrounding grass. When all the holes have been filled and made solid he then places two or three pieces of spawn about one inch square in each hole, treads all down firmly, replaces the turf and beats it tightly down. Under this system, in
August and September mushrooms appear without fail in abundance and without any further care. The method is simple and the result certain. Therefore all who happen to have a meadow, paddock, or grass field, and are fond of mushrooms, should try the experiment. … In the case in question fresh holes were spawned every year.”

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This video shows how to start with your homegrown magic mushrooms grow kit obtained from Magic-Mushrooms-Shop.com
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