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Level 35-39: Go Kill Sakura Cellions. They’re awesome training. They give out a lot of money too. Ice mages can now go kill Fire Boars with ease, so do so at Burnt Land I or II. They can also go to Sand Castle Playground to train on Flower Fishes if they want. Lightning right now is still too weak for your purposes, so boars are a good source of exp and money for now (use magic claw, not lit!). Lightning mages can also train well on Ratz in Floor 100 of Helios Tower. Standing on a slide allows one to rain down lightning while not getting hit.

If you start with Lightning, you can also keep it at level 15 when you reach level 35 (assuming you put 1 pt in Teleport at level 30), and train on the hamsters on the 99th floor of Helios tower. This will be a lightning wizards’ fastest EXP gain until at least level 55, if you work it correctly. (to compare for around level 50, better to kill 4 Retz at 78XP each every 6 seconds, than 1 fire drake at 220 EXP each, and the Retz spawn en-masse at one spot, while larger rarer monsters like Fire Drakes require you to travel…and suffer plenty of damage). Then just work the Retz until you get enough points stored (save at least 9) to raise Lightning to level 24 directly from 15.

This is because the spell doubles in cost from 20 to 40, at spell level 16, making it very hard on your potions. At about lightning level 24, the damage increase should be worth the doubling of MP, but if you’re unsure, you can wait until you get 12 skill points. It’s also very safe to train at the Retz as you can’t get hit unless you are grabbing loot. You can possibly gain 2-3 levels a day at low experience levels this way if you’re a hardcore grinder.

If you are careful with your lightning to mob at least 4 Retz per cast, and pick up all the loot and seeds, you should at -least- break even in mesos/potion use, unlike lorangs, which will drain your mesos like water…

Note: Black Ratz are also a good alternative, at 70 EXP per kill and the fact that they are easier to kill then Retz it may be more profitable to kill them instead.

Level 40-49: If you’re an ice mage, now would be a good time to move up to Jr Cellions (the red kitties) at Ossyria, and Fire Boar is a solid (but less rewarding) alternative. You can also train on sakura cellions they are very rewarding. They give out a lot of exp and money. Thunder Mages can consider Lorang, can also train on Jr Cellions or Grupin if Lorang costs too much money. You’re going to lose money on pots wherever you go anyway, unless you work the hamsters, so why not lose them on monsters that give good exp and decent drops? Party with cleric at Hot Sands occasionally if you’re feeling bored.
Note: for lightning mages, 78 EXP Retz are much faster EXP than the lorangs, as they spawn in mobs, and travel time is reduced to near nothing. It’s strongly advised to continue working the Retz unless you are really bored. If your ice is maxed, and you’re a hybrid, but poor, don’t train at Retz; go kill fire boars or Jr Kitties for safe, fast loot until you get enough mesos to have a good stock of potions. Unless you are more concerned with getting rich (item drops) as opposed to leveling fast, Retz mobbing is -highly- recommended, and thus Hybrids/lit mages will have a big advantage over those who don’t raise Lightning until after meditation.

If you started with Ice and are hybridizing, continue training on fire boars and Jr. Kitties until you raise lightning to level 15 at around experience level 45. (Assuming you are becoming a hybrid). Then use the same advice as above, for the Retz in Helios tower. Being a hybrid is STRONGLY advised, as working the Retz will let you level as fast, or faster, than any other class for now. (Yes, that includes bandits).

Time to go to Monster Carnival! There’s more information about Monster Carnival in the Party Quests section. Monster carnival is great training for Level 40~50 (but you can enter when you’re Level 30)

Think: 30000exp in 10 minutes! But that is only if you win and you get rank A. If you’re a lit mage, you can do Retz too, because you aren’t much help in carnival(for the person who keeps changing this, stop changing it!!!) when you’ve only got lightning bolt.

Maple coins are wanted, they are found rarely by monsters in the carnival party quest. You can get an Arc Staff (Level 45 staff){20 coins}, Cromi (Level 48 wand){20 coins}, or even the famous Speigelmann’s necklace!(gives +1 STR, +1 DEX, +1 INT, and +1 LUK){50 coins} from Spiegelmann.

Note: Robos are really annoying, because they are strong against ice. Tell some other people like bandits to kill robos. If you just don’t want to see them, try going into room 1 or 2. You will not see them unless someone summons them.

Level 50-59: If you have both Ice and Lit, Hot Sands is a very good choice. With only Ice, Red Drake should now be what you’re training on (you can also go for Cellions and Lioners if Red Drakes hurt too much), while with only lit, Retz are still your best bet right now, even though you’re earning less than 0.01% exp per kill, mobbing them should let you level every 6-8 hours until you reach level 55. Move to hot sands if you’re going for Ice after med, when you have level 15 ice. With the new lands coming out, Platoon Chronos in The Road of Time is also a good choice. Many still recommend Lorangs, but due to the travel time required (lots of walking), plus the constant damage you will take, Hamsters are your best choice if you want to gain mesos. You should level 3-4x as fast on Retz as you would on Lorangs. Around level 55, you could also consider drakes meal table as a decent training spot. The exp is in general better then Retz, you’ll gain 85 + sometimes a 240 exp times 6 a few seconds or 135 times 6 a few seconds. The drops are also noteworthy, as wild cargo’s sometimes drop tobi’s, and Drakes quite often kumbi’s. The only big drawback of this place is that it drains meso’s. Especially with magic guard on, which is a must since cargo’s do around 300 damage. Expect to earn half of what you need for the potions. (For lightning wizards)Try going into the room with the roids and neohuroids in Magatia, known as C-2. It has a lot of monsters, and you can mob them to the edge of the map where there is a safe spot to zap them with lightning.
Level 60 -69: Cellions, Lioners, Red Drakes, Hot Sands, Helios Tower, the old spots. You can TRY to train at Buffoons if you like, but that’s not generally a good idea. If you’re not so obsessed with big damage, electrifying some jr. Yetis may not be a bad idea, as with freezing up some hectors and zombies.
Level 70-75: Same old, same old. Zombies, Hot Sands, Red Drakes. Buffoons might be more practical to hunt right now, but there isn’t much change in training. If you’re still doing RETZ, you must be a masochist
Level 76-83: IS mages can start killing Death Teddies now, since there are some sniping points present where you can hit them without worrying about getting hit. It’s not great on your wallet, but it’s very fast training. If you need money, Zombies are your friend again. You can also try Buffoons. Comp Mages should just stay at Zombies or Buffoons right now.
Level 83-88: IS mages got some options now. Bains are a pain to get to and there aren’t many sniping spots, but they’re like Death Teddies with more money, though the map isn’t pure Bains and poison geysers are annoying. Death Teddies are as good as always. If you feel bold, you can try Vikings. Comp mages should probably go for Bains now, or Vikings if you’re bold.
Level 88+: Vikings are a great target. JMSers could probably go for Bains in Weapon Storage (the map after Anego), or try the Kentauruses which give good exp Leafre (though I’m not sure about their spawns). 
  Thanks for your reading,hope it can give you some help on traing your character in Maplestory?

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First of all, a brief explanation of what we are talking about. Truffles are a type of mushroom, broadly speaking, but narrowly speaking are not mushrooms. They grow underground, rather than sprouting up after a rain, and rely on sharp-nosed animals to root them out and eat them to spread their spores. Pigs were traditionally used, and are still employed in some areas although trained dogs are much more common. Truffles are mycorrhiza, a type of fungus that is symbiotic with plants. They are similar to the bacteria in your gut that help digest various types of food. They get fed, and you get fed. Mycorrhizas help plant roots break down specific things (such as insects) into nutrients that can be absorbed. The truffle itself is like any mushroom, the reproductive element of the fungus that is largely invisible to our eyes.

Truffles do not exist in a vacuum. They are carefully adapted to specific environments and fair poorly or not at all outside of those circumstances. There exist many different varieties, from the Italian white to the French black, to the Asian varieties such as the Chinese black. The French black, in particular, is highly prized as a commodity, selling in the $800 per pound range. Although fungi in general are all over and are symbiotic with almost every plant that has been studied, each species is very specific to its native environment.

There are those who might want to quibble about the lack of domestication of the truffle. Since the 1970’s the French have used a technique for seeding spores in the roots of seedling trees that can result in truffle trees that, years down the line, may at some point yield truffles in good years. Variations on this technique have been adapted elsewhere, in the US predominantly in California and North Carolina, with the same results. Plant enough “truffle trees” under the right circumstances, water and nourish it properly, and eventually you get truffles. You have to have the right tree species, the right soil acidity and composition, the right precipitation (or at least irrigation), the right combination of temperature variation, and maintain it as such for years without visible results.

Now, domestication refers to a process of selectively breeding a population for desired traits, sometimes to the point that they can’t survive in the wild. For example, Pliny referred to wheat, which was central to European agriculture. Its wild grass ancestor does not hold its seeds (grain) to the stalk; in fact, it wants it to scatter as much as possible, as easily as possible over as long of a period as possible. For our uses, we needed grains that wouldn’t fall off the stalk, that were big and heavy and thus wouldn’t scatter, and that all matured at the same time. Without human interference, wheat would virtually disappear even though its ancestral cousin (which still exists) does just fine on its own.

However, all of these changes were random mutations that were selectively bred for over thousands of years and positively reinforced through how our ancestors cultivated it. There’s little evidence that we’ve had this same impact on truffles.

Part of the problem is that the truffle doesn’t lure humans per se it lures pigs. It reeks (literally, the stronger the scent the more prized the truffle) in a way that drives female pigs wild. They root around the soil and find the buried treasure. Oddly enough, once out of the ground the truffles can provoke a strong reaction in humans as well. Which, as far as the fungus is concerned, is just as well because it primarily wants to be eaten. The whole idea is for the spores to be in spoor, so to speak, and eliminated in the forest around the right kind of trees of that forest.

However, where there is money to be found eventually science will be brought in to deal with a problem. One of the problems is that we just don’t understand enough about fungi in general to know how to intentionally manipulate something like the lifecycle of the truffle. Accidental domestication has failed, but today there are new tools at the disposal of mycologists. Someday, someone will pay for fungal genomes to be sequenced and studied– and this has to happen sooner, rather than later.

Remember that bit about exacting environmental conditions for fungi? Accelerating climate change can have a big impact on things like growing seasons, precipitation, etc. Although it appears that multiple fungi can help for the most part many plants, we don’t know the limits of this adaptability. We can reasonably assume that all sorts of life have over the long run, overcome previous periods of climatic upheaval. However, adaptation takes a long time– it must work on random mutations in the genes, with those few members of a population with slightly better adaptations surviving to maturity having more reproductively successful descendants…until conditions change again that turn advantages into disadvantages. However, this can play out over generations and huge areas, which render it of very little value over, say, the next couple of centuries in areas concerned with cultivating truffles. We know, for example, that around 1900 there were recipes involving pounds of truffles. Today, the total tonnage of truffle production is a small percent of what it was in previous years and there are far more people today to consume that smaller supply. Was this because of environmental degradation associated with the wars in the 20th Century, or other industrial sources of pollution, or overhunting, or overlogging, or some other change, or some combination of elements that must be untangled? This question needs to be answered for us to understand how to more easily cultivate the truffle and will be partially answered by sequencing the genes of the truffle and painstakingly matching up specific sequences with expressed proteins and figuring out which “junk” DNA helps regulate patterns of protein expression.

Proper understanding of truffle species’ genomes will happen. Consumers with a lot of money are interested in them. Agriculturalists and horti-culturalists are interested in them. Scientists are beginning to become more interested in fungi in general and their interactions with plants. In ten years, not only will there be a wider variety of successful truffle farms spread across the globe, each with their own isolated populations in slightly varying conditions, but the tools used to sequence the genomes of rats, mice, fruit flies, humans, chimps and other animals will be brought to bear on this issue. Not only is there a commercial interest in furthering mycology specifically for truffles, but by doing so it will further the agro sciences in general. Their history, role in our diet, and recent redistribution all set them apart as ideal subjects to help understand more about mycorrhiza.

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So for proper treatment of water damage you must identify that what types of the services are required for restoration method. The form of restoration services essential are determined by which form of water did the damage, clean, black, or gray. Although “clean water,” which would include instances of a pipe bursting in your house or a tub overflowing, is not as harmful as flood water, often called “black water,” potential problems may still happen.

The mushroom growth based on the amount of water was involved and how soon it was removed, are just a couple of the extremely general complications which houseowners face. The existence of mushroom is really severe for health and generates problems such as number of respiratory health conditions like allergies or allergies towards the mushroom spores, which could mature about everywhere. Mildew can occur at humidity levels, in 24 to 48 hours.

After water damage the necessitate to recover failure raises. You must take practical way to protect your house from the ravages of water damage. Performing many routine maintenance on your own house and examining on a routine basis for possible issues might help to save a lot of money and agony, later on in the regrettable happening of a catastrophe. The proper choice to protect your house from damage is to invite professional experts of water damage restoration companies.

The experts will start the method of restoration immediately that will be really useful for you to protect your house from water damage. The water restoration contractors know that how to reduce the damage. After completing the method of water damage cleanup they dry out the entirety house by using fans and opening the doors and windows that can help to speed up the drying method of your house.

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Dry Rot

Dry-rot fungus is often thought of as a building cancer, rampaging through buildings and rapidly destroying any timber in its path. (Furniture Stores) The fungus, which thrives in moist unventilated conditions, will penetrate brickwork to get to more timber and can cause widespread destruction of structural timbers, skirting boards and door frames, and wood flooring.

In short, the fungus can be thought of as ‘living in masonry and eating wood’, and because the fungus thrives in damp, unventilated conditions, it can occur in the areas of a property that are not often seen, such as floor voids, or behind timber panelling, so damage may be extensive before the attack is discovered. (Tv Stands)

What to look for:

Initially the fungus appears as off-white felt-like or cotton-wool like sheets on brickwork and timber, and, in later stages, can develop fungal strands as thick as your finger. Where the fungus is exposed to light, it often has a lemon-yellowish tinge.(Furniture Online)

Damage is often confined to timber but large flat mushroom-like fruiting bodies can easily grow through finishes such as plaster or paint. These fruiting bodies may be the first visible sign of a problem, and they produce numerous spores which are normally brick-red in colour.

Entirely dry-rot decayed timber can be crumbled between your fingers. The fungus leaves deep cracks running across the grain, and there is often evidence of off-white sheets of the fungus on the wood.

Treatment:

The term dry-rot came from the belief that the fungus is able to transport moisture from a source many metres away, to attack dry wood. In fact, although the fungus can transport moisture over several metres, it cannot transport anywhere near enough moisture to attack wood that is otherwise dry.
Treating dry-rot can involve removal of the affected timber (including all timber for a metre beyond the visible signs of the fungus), and extensive chemical fungicide treatments for all adjacent timber and the brickwork of any contaminated walls and plaster. However, this approach is expensive and unnecessary.
The modern approach is to use environmental controls, such as isolation and ventilation, which ensure that the damp, unventilated conditions required by dry-rot do not occur. The techniques are simple ways to ensure that the timber in a property does not become damp enough for dry-rot to attack, for instance replacing dry-rot decayed joists with new timber using joist hangers, instead of building them back into the brickwork, or by using ventilated skirting board details to encourage ventilation of a floor void. (Cheap Furniture)

Replacement door frames should have a strip of damp-proof membrane around the outside, to fully isolate them from damp or potentially damp brickwork, so the timber would never become damp enough for dry-rot to ‘eat’.
If you have dry rot, it is probably best to have the problem looked at, and corrective action taken by a reputable specialist firm, so that you have a guarantee if the problems were to return.

Wet Rot

Compared with dry rot, wet rot is hardly a problem ! It is basically the timber decaying naturally in the presence of high levels of moisture. There is almost always a structural defect causing the problem, it may be that the wall adjacent to the timber is suffering from damp, or water collecting on the timber. Any structural problem must be tackled at the same time as the timber is treated otherwise the problem is likely to reoccur. The problem may just be damaged paint finish on the timber allowing the actual wood to absorb excessive moisture. Damage is normally limited to the timber although the original structural problem may also cause other areas to be affected by damp (such as plaster or just decorations).
What to look for:

Check vulnerable areas of timber, such as window and door frames, for signs of rot. The bottom of frames is more susceptible to rot where water can collect or the wall/floor is suffering from damp. If the paint finish is damaged, this can increase the risk of wet rot. However, although the paint may look sound, the timber underneath may be rotting from the back. You will often see a professional builder push a thin bladed knife into painted timber frames, the blade should stop after a very short distance; if it goes in upto the handle, it is a almost certainly a sign of rot behind the paint. Timber suffering from wet rot will feel spongy (even through a coat of paint) and look darker than the surrounding timber. When dry, the timber will easily crack and crumble into fine particles. Timber in the roof can also be at risk especially where there is roof damage allowing rainwater to run onto the roof timbers.

Prevention:

Ensure that all external timber frames are adequately painted to protect the timber from frontal ingress of water.
Be aware of any damp walls and address the problem, it could be a missing/damaged damp proof course (dpc), a bridged dpc or a bridged cavity. If necessary seek expert advice as the symptom may be just a sign of a bigger problem.
Make sure that any soil and other debris is cleared away from around the bottom of timber frames.

Check the roof space for the ingress of water, you may not see daylight through a hole in the roof, the water could be running down the underfelt behind the tiles onto timber some distance away from the hole. When it is raining, go into the roof with a torch, the shining of water on a timber or felt normally stand out very easily.
Other favoured places for wet rot are under the kitchen sink, bath, shower, washing basins, toilet and behind the washing machine etc.; all areas where a small leak from
either a water supply or drain could go unnoticed for a long time but where timber could become saturated with water.

Treatment:

First of all treat any structural problem, there is no point in repairing the damage to the timber if it is going to reappear.
If wet rot occurs in structural timbers (such as roof trusses, floor joists), expert advice should be sought as the implication for structural integrity must be established.
In other areas, the rotten timbers should be removed and replaced; if the damaged area is fairly small, it can be cut away and a new piece of timber joined to that remaining. If the damage is confined to a very small area, an epoxy based repair kit can be used to fill the damaged area once it has been cut back to sound timber and the new surface of the wood treated with a suitable primer. Preservative tablets are available which are inserted into the timber adjacent to the repaired area to protect the timber ‘from within’. If there is any doubt that the structural problem has been eliminated, the new and adjoining timber should be treated with a proprietary wet rot treatment before redecorating.
After repair, external timbers should be protected with adequate coats of paint or some other suitable timber treatment/preservative.

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The beds should be made upon the floor and as much to one side as possible, so as to be out of the way, and in form flat on the ground, or rounded up against the sides of the shed; in the latter case the house should be well banked around on the outside with litter or tree leaves or earth, so as to exclude frost from the lower part of the walls, and thereby prevent the manure in the beds from getting badly chilled. The beds should be made deeper in a cool shed than in a cellar or warm mushroom house, so that they may retain their heat for a long time.

Shelf beds should not be used in unheated sheds, because of the difficulty in keeping them warm in winter. As a rule, shelf beds are not made as deep as are those upon the floor; hence they do not hold their heat so long. When cold weather sets in it is easy to box up and cover over the lower beds to keep them warm, but in the case of shelf beds, that are exposed above and below, it is more trouble to protect them sufficiently against cold than they are worth.

Generally speaking, the term shed is applied to unheated, simple wooden structures; for instance, the wood-shed, the tool-shed, a carriage-house, or a hay-barn. But we often use the name shed to designate heated buildings as the potting and packing sheds of florists. Were it not that these heated sheds are simply workrooms, and where there is a great deal of going out and in, and, consequently, draughts and sudden and frequent fluctuations of temperature, the treatment of mushroom beds made in them would be the same as that advised for regular mushroom houses; but as the circumstances are somewhat different the treatment, too, should not be the same. A warm potting shed is an excellent place for mushroom beds. Here they should be made under the benches and covered up in front with thick calico, plant-protecting cloth, or light wooden shutters, to exclude cold currents and sudden atmospheric changes, and guard against the beds drying too quickly.

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